We cleanse and moisturise with the best intentions. Yet sometimes, the very routine meant to care for our skin can leave it feeling tight and uncomfortable. Why does skin sometimes feel taut after washing? Is that really a sign that it is clean — or a sign that something it needs has been removed?
Your skin makes its own lipids
Your skin needs different types of lipids. Sebum is produced by the sebaceous glands. The outermost layer of the skin also contains specialised lipids between its cells, including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Think of the skin cells as bricks and the lipids between them as mortar. Together, they help prevent water from escaping too quickly from the skin. [1]
Sebum and these barrier lipids are not the same thing, but together they help maintain a protected skin surface. This system changes as we age. In women in particular, sebum production declines around and after the menopause. Skin that once tolerated frequent cleansing without a problem may therefore become drier, more sensitive or more prone to tightness later in life. [2]
Where does the water go?
If water could simply pass through your skin into the living layers beneath, what would happen after half an hour in the bath? Your body would soak it up like a sponge. It doesn’t. Only the outermost, dead layer of skin temporarily absorbs water and can become softened as a result.
Water is actually moving in the opposite direction all the time: from inside the body towards the skin surface, where it evaporates without us noticing. This invisible water loss is known as transepidermal water loss, or TEWL. A strong skin barrier slows that loss. When the lipids between skin cells are disrupted, water can escape more easily and the skin is more likely to feel dry or tight.
This also helps explain why a water-based cream can seem to ‘sink in’ so quickly. Some of its water temporarily increases the water content of the outermost skin layer, but that effect does not last by itself because the water evaporates again. [3]
That does not mean a cream does nothing. What remains after the water has evaporated can be very useful. Glycerine, for example, helps retain water in the outermost layer of the skin, while lipid-based ingredients can help reduce water loss. [4]
So perhaps the more interesting question is not how much water you put on your skin, but how well your skin can hold on to the water it already has.
What cleansing does
Why does your skin sometimes feel so tight after washing? Is that really ‘squeaky clean’ — or have you removed something that was meant to be there?
Cleansing removes dirt, make-up and sunscreen. But cleansing agents can also remove skin lipids at the same time. How often you cleanse, what you cleanse with, how long you cleanse for and the temperature of the water can all make a difference.
In one recent study, daily cleansing with warm water resulted in greater transepidermal water loss after ten days than cleansing with cooler water. The warm water did not remove make-up any more effectively. It is one study, not a universal law, but it does support a simple principle: don’t use more heat or cleansing power than you need. [5]
Water requires preservation
Why does a cream usually need preservation while an oil does not?
The answer is water.
Where enough available water is present, bacteria, yeasts and moulds can grow. Without sufficient water, they cannot multiply. This is why water-containing cosmetic products need effective protection against microbial spoilage. Preservatives are designed to inhibit or kill microorganisms. Without adequate preservation, a product containing water can become unsafe.
That antimicrobial action, however, does not make a fundamental distinction between unwanted microbes in a jar and all the microbes that naturally live on our skin. In one laboratory study, five commonly used cosmetic preservatives were tested against nine species of bacteria isolated from healthy facial skin. All five were able to inhibit these skin bacteria at sufficient concentrations. [6]
This was laboratory research. It does not prove that every preserved finished product will have the same effect on living skin. Concentration, the complete formulation and contact time all matter.
But a preservative remains an antimicrobial substance. That property does not simply switch off when the product is applied to the skin.
That is why Balmsense takes a different route wherever technically possible: no added water, so no added preservative system is needed.
pH and the skin microbiome
Skin is naturally slightly acidic. This acidic environment helps the skin barrier function properly and plays a part in maintaining the balance of the skin microbiome. [7]
The microbiome is the community of bacteria, yeasts and other microorganisms that naturally live on your skin. It is not dirt that needs to be scrubbed away as thoroughly as possible. Which microorganisms live in a particular area of skin is influenced by factors including sebum, moisture, pH and the part of the body involved. A balanced skin microbiome contributes to barrier function and helps defend the skin against unwanted microorganisms. [8]
In measurements taken around ten minutes after applying the Face Balm, the average skin pH was approximately 4.8. In other words, the skin remained within its naturally slightly acidic range.
Good skincare is therefore not about creating the most sterile skin surface possible. It is about supporting an environment in which the skin can maintain its own balance.
So what does this mean?
Healthy skin retains its own water, produces its own lipids, remains slightly acidic and coexists with its own microorganisms. Good skincare supports that system rather than constantly working against it.
That is why the principle behind Balmsense® is simple:
- strip away fewer skin lipids
- cleanse with lukewarm to cool water
- reduce water loss with skin-friendly lipids
- use no added water, so no added preservative system is needed
- respect the skin’s naturally slightly acidic environment
What this looks like in your routine
Cleansing Balm
The Cleansing Balm is best used in the evening to remove dirt, make-up and sunscreen. Massage a small amount over the skin, then add a little lukewarm water. The balm transforms into a milky emulsion that rinses away. The aim is to cleanse without leaving the skin completely stripped of its lipids.
The formula is based on sunflower oil, which helps dissolve sebum, make-up and other oil-soluble impurities. Soapwort extract and quillaja extract support gentle cleansing. Mandarin oil and Madagascan ginger oil give the balm its uplifting, invigorating scent.
Face Balm
The formula is rich in plant oils, waxes and other active ingredients. Unrefined rosehip seed oil, jojoba oil and argan oil naturally provide antioxidants and valuable lipid-based compounds. Pomegranate seed extract provides additional antioxidant support. Candelilla wax helps form a thin protective film over the skin and reduce water loss. Oat starch softens the skin feel and helps reduce excess shine.
Use sparingly. With the right amount, your skin may look a little shinier immediately after application. Give the lipids around fifteen minutes to settle into the skin. The wax and oat starch ultimately leave a matt finish.
Frequently asked questions
Will oils give me spots?
No — not because oil simply ‘clogs’ your pores. That is a persistent myth. Acne develops within the pilosebaceous follicle through an interplay of sebum, abnormal keratinisation, Cutibacterium acnes and inflammatory responses. The oils, waxes, glycerine and oat starch in Balmsense do not simply form a ‘plug’ in your pores. Lipids are also an essential part of a healthy skin barrier. A balanced skin microbiome plays an important role in acne too.
Can a balm be too rich?
Yes. If you use too much, a balm can continue to feel heavy or greasy. But sometimes it is also a matter of what your skin is accustomed to. Many people are used to skin feeling rather too stripped, so even the right amount of balm can initially feel like ‘too much’.
If, after around 15 minutes, the balm still transfers noticeably onto your fingers or moves easily across the skin, you have probably applied too much. Gently press a tissue against your face to absorb the excess, without wiping. Next time, simply use a little less.
Why does my skin sometimes feel dry even though I use plenty of moisturiser?
Because dry skin is not simply a question of putting water onto it. If your skin barrier allows too much water to escape, or is repeatedly stripped of its lipids, your skin can continue to feel tight no matter how much cream you apply.
One final thought
Perhaps the most useful question is not: what else can I put on my skin?
But rather: what can my skin already do for itself — and what am I removing from it every day?
That is where skin logic begins.
References
- Pappas, A. “Epidermal surface lipids.” Dermato Endocrinology 1(2), 72–76 (2009). Describes the distinction between sebum and the lipids between cells in the outermost layer of the skin.
- Zouboulis, C.C. & Boschnakow, A. “Chronological ageing and photoageing of the human sebaceous gland.” Clinical and Experimental Dermatology 26(7), 600–607 (2001). Describes, among other findings, the decline in sebum production in women after the menopause.
- Batt, M.D. & Fairhurst, E. “Hydration of the stratum corneum.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science 8(6), 253–264 (1986). Topically applied water produced only a temporary hydrating effect because of rapid evaporation.
- Fluhr, J.W., Darlenski, R. & Surber, C. “Glycerol and the skin: holistic approach to its origin and functions.” British Journal of Dermatology 159(1), 23–34 (2008). Review of glycerol, water retention and skin barrier function.
- Long, S., Fenn, K., Harvey, K., Ward, P. & O’Brien, C. “Cool versus warm water for facial cleansing: A randomized controlled clinical study of skin barrier, skin physiology, cleansing efficacy and water consumption.” International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2026). A ten-day study involving 52 adults.
- Wang, Q., Cui, S., Zhou, L. et al. “Effect of cosmetic chemical preservatives on resident flora isolated from healthy facial skin.” Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 18(2), 652–658 (2019). Laboratory research examining five preservatives and nine bacterial species isolated from healthy facial skin.
- Brooks, S.G., Mahmoud, R.H., Lin, R.R., Fluhr, J.W. & Yosipovitch, G. “The Skin Acid Mantle: An Update on Skin pH.” Journal of Investigative Dermatology 145(3), 509–521 (2025). Review of the role of the skin’s acidic environment in barrier function, inflammation and the microbiome.
- Kortekaas Krohn, I., Callewaert, C., Belasri, H. et al. “The influence of lifestyle and environmental factors on host resilience through a homeostatic skin microbiota: An EAACI Task Force Report.” Allergy 79(12), 3269–3284 (2024). Discusses the relationship between the skin microbiome, sebum, moisture, pH and barrier function.
0 comments